RECYCLED – What Will Winter Taste Like – Continued
Editor’s Note: Last week, we re-posted our guide to the three tastes of winter. This week, we follow up with how we followed up last year, expanidn on the taste of winter.
If you were like me, shoveling snow before the crack of dawn this AM [ed. this will probably read better on Saturday AM], you know winter is here. Last week, we noted the three tastes of winter. Today, let’s discuss a bit more how winter will taste. The wonder and experience of seasonal eating is not just the parade of fruits and vegetables coming around for their period. Different times of year just taste different. Spring food (and in Chicago local eating, we use that term loosely) tastes sharp and bright and green because the onions and garlic are new and green. If we could say that spring foods taste alive, of renewal, does that mean that winter foods taste like death and decay? Well, let’s not quite go there, but winter tastes are the tastes of food holding on to their last grips of life and flavor.
Think peppers. From summer, well into fall, we can mark-up our foods with fresh peppers, both sweet and hot. During the winter, we have to rely on the peppers we have dried. Food will taste different. With dried peppers come my first batch of harissa:
Soak dried peppers in hot water until they soften, about an hour; combine in a blender, food processor or mortar with a clove or two of garlic and a smidgen of cumin, drizzle in olive oil until a nice paste forms. If your peppers are very hot, like mine, use a bit of the water to dilute.
I’m rather smitten with Tunisian cuisine where harissa goes into everything. Try this Tunisian style salad of raw, grated turnips for winter eating: grate turnips, salt, let sit five minutes, add harissa, lemon juice and olive oil.
Another big difference in the way winter food tastes will come from the lack of fresh herbs, or perhaps the limited supply of herbs. Certain dried herbs, especially oregano, can be used to great effect in the kitchen, but again it will taste different. Winter is also time to make full use of the “Marco Polo Exception” to local eating, as Bill McKibben explains:
I considered fair game anything your average 13th century explorer might have brought back from distant lands. So: pepper, and turmeric, and even the odd knob of ginger root stayed in the larder.
Winter braises and mashes take especially well to spices. What better to join your home-made harissa than a North African inspired tangine. Think also how spices go into winter desserts like gingerbread cookies and fruitcakes (good fruitcakes!).
There is nothing to stop you from using dried peppers and ancient spices in your food all year long. It’s just that in other times of year we have options. Yes, we have to eat what is present, but it is also nice and good to have a winter that tastes different. Us locavores revel in this difference. Moreover, the seasonings of the season go best with the foods of the season. Lastly, there are other benefits to using these flavorings now. Spices like ginger and peppercorns give a warming effect to food.
Today [ed. tommorrow?] will not be the first time I shoveled snow this winter. It surely will not be the last. At least I will have the unique tastes of winter to sustain me over this period.